Friday, August 5, 2016

Day 30 July 17 Clark’s Harbor NS to Penobquis NB

Early up and we bid adieu to this sweet little island town, after a really nice breakfast, featuring homemade rosehip jam.  Yum!  And then we set off to explore the west coast of Nova Scotia.

Nearly right away, we got lost in a town, Yarmouth.   The signs were very confusing and we kept taking strange turns.  We finally spotted a road out of town that was clearly not the main route, but in the right direction so we took it.  That ended up being a great choice, taking us through small villages and lovely rolling hills and countryside.  We even saw a dragon or a sea monster chasing a swimmer (we think it was a sculpture…but who knows!)  Fun to see such humor in the countryside. Anyway, it was a really fine drive up the coast.

We finally got to the main road and, still following the advice from our "Off the Beaten Path" guidebook, we saw in the distance, an enormous church tower.  We found out that it was the tallest wooden church in North America.  We had to stop.  The church was modeled after a church in Germany made out of stone and they reproduced it in wood, and painted it to resemble stone, especially inside.  We had a great talk with the young man who was on duty inside.  It turns out that he has some Acadian ancestry (although he was clear his last name was not pronounced or spelled in the French manner).  We told us a lot of interesting tales about he church. A great stop.

As we driving along, Dick saw yet another sign for a lighthouse.  The amount of the lighthouses in the Northeast is astounding.  We couldn’t begin to stop at them all, but we tried to hit as many as possible.  He said, “Let’s just take a quick look.”  As we turned into the parking area, there were tons of people around, and a sign "Picnic today 1-4:00".  We thought that we would see if we could still take a quick picture, but were warmly welcomed and invited to join them. 

It turned out this was a local fundraiser for the lighthouse, done by the largely Acadian local people.  This included a flea market, and Acadian food.  We were asked if we had ever tried, Rappie pie?  When we said no, they told us we needed to try it.  It was a chicken stew held together with a potato paste. Both the woman selling the food tickets, as well as those serving up the food were so welcoming and delighted that we would have the change to eat some of this traditional food.  We hung out at the food tent for quite some time, chatting with them and hearing about their lives in the area.  They invited us to stay around because the band was just setting up, but we were headed to a special event at a historic site and so needed to move on.  This was another example of the lovely hospitality that we experienced form the Acadian people.

We were headed to another historic Acadian site, Grand Pré, along the Western Coast of Nova Scotia.   We were lucky to arrive on a day that they were having all types of special events and celebrations.  At this site, they had a statute of Evangeline, the character in Longfellow’s poem by that name focusing on the plight of the Acadian people and young woman separated from her husband on their wedding day due to the deportations.  This site did a great job portraying life in that area before the deportations and what they deportation was like for these hardworking, peace-loving people.   We were pleased to see so many gathered for this event.   

And Patti even found the red chairs again, as it was a historic site of the Park Canada National Parks.We enjoyed soaking in some of the festival, but then it was time to move on up the coast.  There were more sites to be seen before night fell.

First, we stopped at a small lighthouse that was being cared for by local community people.  A very friendly volunteer talked with us about the tides in this area, and especially how the fishermen and women would sometimes go out as the tide was coming in and had great luck in catching the fish by the dozens that came in by the tide.  We told us about how you could walk a quarter of a mile out another the flats (which when the tide is up is the bottom of the bay.)  People would go clamming and fishing and just walking around.  This sounded great, but it wasn’t the time to do that there.  But, we had picked up a tidal chart as to when low tide would be, and there was such a spot ahead of us.

We then needed to move on up the coast.  The coast is on the Bay of Fundy, and we were beginning to see signs of the tide going out. This whole area in both Nova Scotia and New Brunswick has a bay and is one of a small number of areas in the whole with super high tides.  We stopped at Burntcoat Bay where the highest tide ever was recorded at over 50 feet. The tidal difference for this particular day was about 40 feet.  We were hoping to get a taste of some of the drastic changes in tides.  We knew the best way to this would be to stay in an area for a couple of days and see both high and low tides, but we couldn’t do that.  We had too much ground we needed to cover.  However, we were able to have some great experiences.

We were able to time our arrival at low tide at the spot which had the world record low tide.  There was also a lighthouse there, which was closed, but then we watched as they people streamed by us walking down the stairs towards the cliffs and over a the rocks to the exposed bottom of the bay.  We realized we would be able to walk down there.  Some of the initial areas were very muddy, then sand, and then out onto the rock which sloped down to the water.  We were surrounded by rocky cliffs high above our heads.  Wow! There were islands that at low tide were no longer islands.  There were little tidal pools which had sea creatures like hermit crabs, and lots and lots of rocks and little shells and mollusks. We joined with other families and couples who were having a great time scampering around exploring.  The mud was really red and sticky.  We had not realized this was what we were getting ourselves into and so had to be a little careful trying to minimize the amount of mud we got on us.  You could easily slip and fall which we didn’t do. It was great fun!!!!

We left there as the sun was beginning to go down and we had still many miles to drive.  Patti took a long nap in  the back of the van while Dick drove, and woke up in New Brunswick.  We had some extra adventures trying to find out little Pinecone Motel in the dark without good signs.  But with help from a phone call to the owner, we eventually arrived.  This was a young couple who were still in their first year of owning a motel and they were highly eager to help us. We wish them well. And we were very pleased to stop for the night.

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