Friday, August 5, 2016

Day 29 July 16, 2016 Halifax to Clark’s Habour NS

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We got off early because we wanted to see Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse before the tourists all arrived.  We got there around 8:00 and had a glorious hour with only a couple other people before the tour buses started to arrive. This is said to be Canada’s more photographed lighthouse, and it was really a beauty.  It sits on rugged rocks, with the waves crashing up.  In the early morning light, it was so peaceful.  We saw photos of it crawling with buses and buses full of tourists.  There was an enormous parking lot that could fit so many cars, and a really big gift shops.  This is on the route of more tour buses…and we were so blessed (and self-congratulatory) that we were able to see it and photograph it from all angles as we wanted without dodging tourists.  We did well at this!

Then we were also able to walk around this tiny fishing village and get some amazingly classic shots from all angles of the boats, and the old fishing sheds, all with the water reflecting up and everything looking like it was straight out of a movie set.  What a charming place.  They still fish there, but also make a lot of their money on tourists.

Then we were off in the car for a delightful drive down the eastern coast of Nova Scotia.   At nearly every turn there would be more pretty little towns, nice white churches, views of foggy moving across the docks.  The whole day took us in and out of great views.  The drive wasn’t so long today, but there were so many places that we just had to stop to take some pictures.

Breakfast was delicious at a place with patio tables and very slow service.  We sighed and agreed it was good that we were on vacation and really didn’t have a tough schedule today.  We ended up striking up a good conversation with a couple from Australia on vacation, too.  A nice stop.  We then walked over to a local farmer’s market.  Lots of early summer veggies, and lots of locally sourced food.  We would not be cooking for a while, so didn’t buy anything, but it all looked so good.

Another stop was a town, Lunenberg, with many colorful old buildings and a great fishing heritage. They had a nice Maritime museum, but we did not have enough time to linger too long.  There were many local artists at work at painting and drawing old buildings for an auction that afternoon. We were there on a day when many artists were finishing paintings to be a part of a auction later in the day.  Dick enjoyed conversations and watching them bring these great old buildings to life on their paper.

We were very excited to be able to visit a museum about The Black Loyalists.  These were African Americans who were both freemen and women or escaped or former slaves who were loyal to the British because they were told if they fought for the British against the American rebels, they would be given their freedom.  Thousands of them ended up coming to Canada as the American Revolution went to the Americans.  Neither of us had heard any of this history and so we wanted to visit this site.    It was built in the area where 1200 blacks had lived for a number of years right after the Revolutionary War.  The British often did not keep their promises and life was very hard in this harsh land.  After several years, about 800 of them took the opportunity to go by ship to Africa where they were able to establish new free lives.  This happened with mixed results.  There were also many who chose to stay and be Canadians.  Two of the young people working at this museum were descendants of these settlers.  This museum was cool, but it was quite a highlight to spend nearly an extra hour talking with the four young people on staff about what they have learned and about their experiences learning about this history.  And outstanding experience.

We then needed to move on because we were headed to the most southern point in Canada: Clark’s Harbor.  This was down on an island in the far south of Nova Scotia.  There we spent a fine night with a very friendly Band B host and her little dog.  She was a wealth of information about life on the island, and we had some great conversations.  She also gave us a good tip to go have a fine lobster dinner in town.  Excellent food!  And we were complimented that we ate it well.  We were pleased to not totally embarrass ourselves in our eating.

Back to the island where we went down to the beach and watched the waves and peeked at the Cape Sable lighthouse, tallest lighthouse in Canada, which was even father out on another island.   Our host promised if we returned, she would arrange a boat ride out there.  It was so pretty and peaceful.  We were so please to be there, even if it was just for one night.  This for sure goes on our list of places to return to see.

Time to just finish our laundry, work on some blog pictures and toddle off to bed.  Another fine vacation day!

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